Lawn care

A dense, lush green lawn is the showpiece of a well-kept garden – and also its hardest-working area. Mowing fairly regularly is not enough on its own: watering, feeding, scarifying and weed control are at least as important – and with a new lawn, the first few weeks are decisive.

Watering properly: rarely, but thoroughly

For an established lawn, the rule is: water less often, but thoroughly. Around 15 l/m² is usually enough for 6 to 10 days; in hot summers, water every 3 to 4 days. This soaks the soil to a depth of about 15 cm and the roots grow downwards. Shallow watering every day has the opposite effect: the roots stay in the top few centimetres, the thatch builds up more and the lawn becomes more sensitive to drought.

Mowing: regularly and with sharp blades

During the growing season, mow at least once a week – the more often you cut, the denser the sward. The usual cutting height is about 4 cm; per mow, remove no more than a third and at most half of the blade length. Well-sharpened mower blades are important – blunt blades leave ragged edges on the cut, which let disease in. Rake off clippings, leaves and fallen fruit, otherwise the lawn can suffocate. Mulching mowers are only suitable to a limited extent for ornamental lawns, because the clippings left behind cause the sward to thatch more quickly.

Feeding: 2 to 3 applications a year

Every cut removes nutrients, and they need to be replaced. 2 to 3 fertiliser applications, each with about 5 g nitrogen/m², have proved their worth: a quick-acting fertiliser in late March/early April (when the forsythia blooms), a slow-release complete fertiliser in late June/early July and, for higher demands, a potassium-rich autumn fertiliser in late August/early September. Always follow the manufacturer's fertiliser recommendation. Spread the fertiliser in two passes, crosswise, and then water thoroughly – otherwise you risk patchy growth and uneven colour.

Scarifying against moss and thatch

Over the course of the year, leaves and plant debris form a layer of thatch that holds moisture and hinders root development – and moss spreads. Scarifying from early April is the remedy: set the blades down to the soil surface (no more than 3 mm into the soil) – this removes thatch, moss and broadleaf weeds. Then top-dress the lawn with sand. For deeper compaction, aerating helps to improve air circulation and water movement in the soil.

Keeping weeds under control

A largely weed-free lawn is realistic – the foundation is well-nourished soil, regular watering and a grass mix suited to the site. In the long term, the combination of regular mowing, scarifying and feeding as needed does the work; stubborn perennial weeds are dug out.

New lawns: the first weeks are decisive

After sowing, the top layer of soil with the seedlings must never dry out – even a few hours of dryness on a warm day can destroy seed that has once been moistened. Keep the area damp until germination (8 to 14 days, depending on the weather), then give about four applications of 5 l/m² per week; puddles must not form. Three to four weeks after germination, gradually switch to 10 to 15 l/m² once or twice a week. The first cut is made when the blades are 6 to 8 cm high, cutting down to 5 cm; from about the fourth mow, you can reduce this to 4 cm. After the first cut, feed with a fast-acting mineral nitrogen fertiliser (5 g N/m²). Wild plants sprouting from the seed bank in the soil are normal – most do not tolerate cutting and disappear with regular mowing; simply pick up any stones that have worked their way to the surface. The lawn can be used after about four to six weeks, gently at first.