Caring for grasses

Pruning, feeding and winter interest

Compiled by our master gardeners · Last updated: July 2026

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Grasses are the green frame for colourful perennial beds. Especially in the second half of the year, these easy-care companions take centre stage – often with spectacular autumn colour and decorative flowers. Covered in hoar frost or snow, deciduous species such as Chinese silver grass, reed grass and fountain grass are among the most beautiful winter highlights in the garden.

Leave them standing over winter

The old stems are not just decorative – they protect the heart of the plant from hard frosts. In heavy snow, the stems can be tied together; this also stops old flower heads and leaves, for example on Chinese silver grass, from being scattered around the garden by the wind. Newer varieties, however, have been bred to stand quite upright and stable.

Cutting back in spring

Deciduous grasses are cut back to ground level between February and April, before new growth starts. This prevents too much moisture from getting into the plant and causing rot; after cutting back, the grass can sprout freely. With evergreen grasses such as giant sedge or blue oat grass, you only cut out frost damage in spring. If grasses self-seed aggressively, cut the seed heads off before the seeds ripen.

Caution: the leaves of some grasses, such as Chinese silver grass and pampas grass, have very sharp edges – wear gloves when cutting.

Do grasses need feeding?

Only in moderation. When newly planted, ornamental grasses should receive a base feed – organic fertilisers such as horn shavings are particularly good as a starter, as they release their nutrients slowly and evenly. After the spring cut, a single slow-release fertiliser (mineral or organic) can be applied. Too much fertiliser, however, quickly leads to lush, soft growth, which makes grasses more prone to fungal diseases and pests.

Do grasses need a lot of water?

No – most ornamental grasses need little water if they are in the right place. Water needs can be derived from the grass's original habitat: prairie grasses such as switch grass and blue fescue prefer dry conditions, while pond-edge plants such as some sedges and tufted hair grass like a damp spot. Choosing the right place when planting saves a lot of watering later.

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Frequently asked questions

Answers about grasses

When should you cut back ornamental grasses?

Deciduous grasses between February and April, before new growth starts, down to ground level. Evergreen grasses are not cut back completely – in spring you only remove frost damage.

Why shouldn't you cut grasses back in autumn?

The old stems protect the heart of the plant from hard frost and stop moisture getting in and causing rot. Grasses covered in hoar frost or snow are also a lovely winter decoration.

Do I need to feed ornamental grasses?

Only sparingly: an organic base feed when planting (e.g. horn shavings) and a single slow-release fertiliser after the spring cut are enough. Too much fertiliser makes grasses soft and prone to fungal disease and pests.

How much water do grasses need?

That depends on the species: prairie grasses such as switch grass or blue fescue like it dry, while pond-edge plants such as sedges or tufted hair grass prefer a damp spot.

What can I do if grasses self-seed too much in the bed?

Cut the seed heads off before the seeds ripen – that keeps self-seeding under control.

When should you plant grasses?

Spring is the safest time, as soon as the soil has dried out and is frost-free – the grasses then root firmly before winter and already grow strongly in the first year. Autumn planting is possible for robust species until September; warmth-loving grasses such as Chinese silver grass or fountain grass, on the other hand, should be planted in spring, because freshly planted specimens may otherwise not survive their first winter. When planting, choose the position according to the grass's origin (see irrigation) and add an organic base feed.

How often do grasses need watering?

Ornamental grasses planted in the right spot largely manage without extra watering once established – what matters is not a fixed routine but the right position. Water needs can be derived from a grass's origin: prairie grasses such as switch grass or blue fescue prefer dry conditions, while pond-edge plants such as sedges or tufted hair grass need permanently moist soil. While plants are establishing and in longer dry spells, water thoroughly rather than often in small amounts.

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